Georgian Jewelry

Introduction

All jewelry made in the Georgian Era was handmade. Georgian fashion called for the use of large stones set in a sophisticated rococo style. The diamond was the most favored precious stone at the beginning of the Georgian period.

Soon enough though, diamond alternatives were produced with such quality that it was entirely reputable for even royalty to wear them. Real gems were replaced with glass paste copies and a substitute for gold called “pinchbeck”, which is a mixture of copper and zinc, was also used. Paste, rock crystal, marcasite, and cut steel were also engaged into production to meet the increased demand for white stones.

In the 1750’s various semi-precious gems also began to be used by jewelers. Gems like emeralds, rubies, and sapphires were worn again along with new stones like topaz, chartreuse chrysoberyl, amethyst, coral, ivory, pearls, and garnets were used widely.

All types of jewelry from rings, girandole earrings, memorabilia jewelry, bracelets, crosses, hair combs, buckles, aigrettes, and tiaras were large in Georgian era.

Design and Styling

With the introduction of engraved classical jewelry lava, shell, onyx, and carnelian became popular. After Napoleon had antique roman cameos placed on his crown for his 1804 coronation, they became very popular. Other popular Georgian motifs were intaglios, cameos, mosaic, acorns, Urns, Doves, the Greek key, Phoenix, Wheat, and plumage.

At this time diamond cutters were also introducing exhilarating new types of gem cuts such as rose cut, cushion, and brilliants. Jewelry at this time looked large and bold but they had hollow forms and scroll motifs to save up precious material.

Jewelry styles followed were smaller, lighter forms, often with draped chains and classical motifs.

Oval shapes, and Navette, were common along with inscriptions. Seed pearls, garnets, black enamel and onyx were also often included.

Popular styles of the time included -

Long earrings, a single drop, or the three drop “chandelier” style were common.
Short necklaces were complimenting low necklines of the times.
A row of diamonds or gemstones graduated in size or cameos.
Favored motifs for brooches were diamond bows, feathers and floral sprays.
Stomachers were large brooches which covered a gown from the low cut neckline to the waist or just above.
Chatelaines were worn at the waist, incorporating work implements suspended by chains.

Materials

Georgian gems were often set over gold or silver foil with their backs enclosed with metal. Sometimes, you can detect Georgian pieces by the way the stones are mounted.

Most of the common features included -

Cobalt blue, black and white enameling
foilback stones
low flat goldwork and
Bezels
18k gold and higher

Favored gemstones of the Georgian period were topaz, garnets, coral, aquamarine and mostly diamonds. All precious metals and gemstones were very rare until the 20th century.

Foil backing indicates a fake stone in jewelry today as open work for gems is preferred.

Interesting facts

In the days before photography, people wore miniature painted portraits of their loved ones in pendants, brooches and bracelets.
Collars or chokers were popular in the period 1770 to 1790.
Jeweled bands were worn in the hair, high on the arm, and sometimes on calves, thighs, and toes.
Men wore more jewelry in those days than today.
Very little Georgian jewelry survived because when styles changed it was recycled.
In order to finance the war against Napoleon around 1804, Prussia (Germany and Poland today) were called upon to give up their jewelry. They were thanked with iron jewelry replacements which objects are highly collectible in present time.

Pictures of Georgian Jewelry